Digestible criticism

The Observer's Jay Rayner has his way with a London mogul's newest London eatery: Before I ate at the Paternoster Chophouse, the latest venture from Terence Conran, I regarded his restaurants as slick, professional but ultimately soulless businesses, which placed the emphasis on function and form rather than food. Then I had lunch. Now I regard them as slick, professional but ultimately soulless businesses, which place the emphasis on function and form rather than food. There are occasions when meeting expectations can be seen as a virtue. This isn't one of them... Dead shellfish is not a confidence-inducing measure in a restaurant. You cannot help but start to worry about episodes of food poisoning, which is not a good thing when your companion is the managing editor of your newspaper, and the man you negotiate your pay with. (Note to self: avoid poisoning boss.)