Creamy for tofu

The New York surveys the state of tofu today: "'Coagulated bean curd' is the unappealing definition tofu has been saddled with since it became widely available here in the 1950's, but that description doesn't begin to convey the pleasures of silken tofu—tender mouthfuls of freshly made kinugoshi-dofu (in Japanese), sundubu (Korean) or doufu (Chinese). The dense white blocks that bob in watery tubs at many New York markets, and the leathery strips of "mock duck" served in old-school vegetarian restaurants haven't won tofu many local fans either."