The mastermind behind all of this is known as Tim

The FT's Nicholas Lander tries Bangkok's best restaurant, the unprepossessing, almost century-old Chote Chitr: "Chote Chitr boasts just six tables with a central aisle that allows the staff and the restaurant's dogs equally easy access to the tiny kitchen. The furniture, crockery (with forks and spoons only), paper napkins and lavatory are basic with the kitchen range boasting no more than three gas-fired woks alongside a jumble of pots and pans, cases of Coke and a television set. The dishes—a staggering 400 of them—are written on four menus hung on the wall. The mastermind behind all this is known as Tim, a middle-aged woman whose plump figure matches the size of her smile."