Homely cooking

My stomach rumbles over this pub-grub review of some "deeply attractive food" in the Observer: "I tried to resist. I knew, from the moment I saw it on the menu, that I would be guilty of gross predictability if I chose it. But what was I to do? The dish was listed as 'braised pig's head, honey roast pork belly, scallops, champ and cabbage'. It was the floozy of dishes, its skirt hitched far higher over the knee than is strictly necessary, and I am a man of base instincts. So I promised myself I would not order another pork belly for, ooh, the next six months. Well, at least not for the next three. Whatever... I had to have this one."

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