Man-eat-duck world

In the Times, editorial board member Lawrence Downes, a specialist in suburban issues, spits some out over Chicago chef Charlie Trotter's recent public disavowal of foie gras: Fine cooking is fine art, and Mr. Trotter should feel free to use whatever materials he likes. He says foie gras is cruel, but he could have also called it boring—a cliché slurped by too many diners who, we suspect, would swoon just as easily over the velvety succulence of Spam or schmaltz on rye, if they were prohibitively priced and listed on the menu in French. By spurning an easy fix of fancy fat, Mr. Trotter is simply making his job a bit harder, and this man-eat-duck world a slightly kinder place. There is much to admire in that.

Popular Posts