12 October 2004

Per se for its own sake

A long, enthusiastic look at "superchef" Thomas Keller's Manhattan restaurant, Per Se by Jay Rayner in the Observer after a 15-course tasting: With each course we want to strike quick, mean and leave without getting caught, [Keller] writes, like some Norman Mailer of the stove. All menus at the French Laundry revolve around the law of diminishing returns. That is the more you have of something the less you enjoy it.